What they don't tell you about electrolysis

77
u/UptownGworl
Sun Apr 11 04:27:10 2021 UTC
(35 comments)

There is a lot of information about how the various electrolysis techniques work from a technical point of view and lots of resources on numbing and where to go, but I wanted to share other things I've learned in my 140 combined hours of electrolysis all over my body (I'm still not done!).

The success of electrolysis on a single follicle depends on a whole host of factors. It's important to be aware of these factors to make sure you're not wasting time and money.

The modalities - six in one hand

There's a lot of info out there on the different modalities but not much beyond how they work.

Pure Galvanic

This is the original modality, the most rare, and the least painful. An electric current is passed through the follicle, which causes moist hair to turn to lye, which damages the follicle. It takes a long time, like 30 seconds or more to treat a single hair. In the old days they would stick several probes in at once to treat large areas. An analogy of how this modality works is like dumping poison in a flower pot and then pulling out the stalk. It slowly damages or kills the flower -- it makes the flower grow back much weaker or just die.

Pure Thermolysis

This modality uses pulses of radio waves to try and heat up the follicle enough to kill parts of it or destroy it entirely. It can be the most painful, depending what settings/equipment are used. Hairs are treated in just a few seconds. An analogy for this method is like stabbing at the flower pot with a trowel and then plucking the stalk of the flower out, hoping you damaged enough of the root to kill or weaken the flower.

The power of the pulses can be customized. For instance cis women with vellus hair only need lower power blasts. More coarse hairs may need several lower-powered pulses that, combined, more gradually heat up the follicle. Alternatively, the electrologist may deliver fewer higher-powered pulses.

The size of the probe can be adjusted as well as the amount of insulation around the outside of the probe. Bigger probes offer a wider blast radius but can be more painful on insertion or cause more indiscriminate heating and thus more discomfort. Insulated probes help focus the energy to reduce pain but need to be aimed more accurately.

This method covers more area per session, but several passes have to be done over the same area to get hairs that were only weakened, or those that were missed as they weren't grown out at the time of the last treatment.

Blend

Blend combines galvanic and thermolysis. The probe runs a current that produces lye and then warms up the follicle using lower-powered radio pulses. It's usually less painful than thermolysis. Machines can be calibrated to produce differing amounts of lye and different levels of radio pulses. It still takes several seconds per hair while the lye is generated.

Modalities compared

In the long run, there is no big difference between thermolysis and blend. You end up treating the same amount of hair. Some electrologists just prefer thermolysis because with no electrical current there are fewer worries about complications with certain medical conditions or pregnancy. Done incorrectly, thermolysis can also cause bad scarring if too much is done on high density areas or power levels are set too high.

Moisturize!

Electrolysis works best on well-hydrated skin. It's important with all modalities because they rely on interactions with water to function. So keep hydrated. Wear a moisture mask the night before. Use a greasy moisturizer like Eucerin Advanced Repair on the days leading up to your appointment. Exfoliation is also important.

Different areas of the body also produce different qualities of hair. Facial hair is usually much more moist than chest, arm, or pelvic hair. This means it can require more passes to destroy non-facial hair.

Know your cycle

The hair growth cycle is an extremely important factor but I rarely see an information about it online. Electrolysis is most effective when hair is in the growth (not resting) stage. This happens after you pluck a hair and it regrows. Because of this, the first pass over an area is less likely to permanently kill hair versus when an area has been previously treated. This means it's best to keep a regular schedule where the same areas can be re-treated.

Growth cycles are shorter for facial hair (6-8 weeks) and longer elsewhere on the body (about 10 weeks).

The longer a hair goes between clearings, the deeper a root can establish itself. This makes it more resistant to damage (meaning a less likely kill) and means more pain because the heat is being applied to an area closer to the nerves. So stay on top of your growth cycles!

The bottom line: make sure you retreat the same area every 6-8 weeks, otherwise you spend money and hours on less effective clearing on out-of-cycle hair.

Don't be a martyr

There are lots of tips on numbing creams, drugs, and other techniques. But the issue of numbing is important. If you go to a session with no numbing, unless you are incredibly pain tolerant, the electrologist will likely turn down the power or else you'd run out the door screaming in pain. They'll also work more slowly as rapid treatment causes pain to build. Effective numbing means the electrologist can crank up the power, which means a more likely kill, as well as allowing them to work faster because they're not worried about your pain levels.

This is another area where large volume sessions (4-8hrs with multiple electrologists) are a big advantage. You're completely (well usually) numb so they can work at max speed.

Every hair is special

Some hairs grow more horizontally out of your skin. This makes it hard to position the probe and can mean more pain as the hair crosses over more area and thus has a higher chance of overlapping any nerve endings.

This seems to be true for me, that the left side of the body tends to be more sensitive and has more hair growth, which makes for a bad combo. This is possibly due to higher blood flow on the left side of the body. Not sure how scientific this actually is tho...

Hairs that are only damaged by electrolysis will grow more slowly and grow finer. This means you should allow plenty of time for hair to grow out before a session on areas that have already been treated.

all 35 comments



18
u/[deleted]
Sun Apr 11 07:50:05 2021 UTC
(12 children)

What they don't tell you about electrolysis is that it's about 500 times more painful than laser and you'd probably rather go through the latter every few years than have your face incinerated one follicle at a time every week for years on end.

Sun Apr 11 12:44:21 2021 UTC
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(6 children)

[deleted]

2
Sun Apr 11 15:07:56 2021 UTC
(5 children)

I certainly hope it works for you more than it did for me, fam.

Sun Apr 11 15:45:47 2021 UTC
(4 children)

[deleted]

1
Sun Apr 11 15:47:44 2021 UTC
(3 children)

It just didn't work that well. I have one lighter cycle of hair now, but that's it.

Sun Apr 11 15:55:46 2021 UTC
(2 children)

[deleted]

1
Sun Apr 11 16:02:07 2021 UTC
(1 child)

Extremely, yes. Mine were hit over 5 times. Didn't work. Idk why, but yeah.

Sun Apr 11 15:11:37 2021 UTC
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(3 children)

[deleted]

6
Sun Apr 11 15:14:24 2021 UTC
(2 children)

Oh no no. It would only be a spot treatment or two here and there. Laser's really effective. Electrolysis is touted as the gold standard because the hair could literally never come back.

6
OP
Sun Apr 11 15:23:42 2021 UTC
(1 child)

It also depe ds on hair color. A lot of my facial hair is light blond or gray and thus un-lase-able

1
Sat Jul 31 03:25:04 2021 UTC
(0 children)

i love lasers, the way cats respond, the way sharks use them, and the way they zap my hair away, the only down side is they do not work on light or gray hair. That being said a combo of both is a great way to go, Kill-um all.

1
Tue Oct 31 23:07:54 2023 UTC
(0 children)

My Electrolysis clients tell me how painful their laser was - crying during laser, needing to stop every 5 min, etc. I have Electrolysis that fall asleep during their session, very few require numbing cream. Most fall between those 2...and find it quite tolerable...not feeling most of it and then occasionally some 'spicy' ones.

The FDA Consumer Health Information Bulletin of 27 June 2007 states "The US. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) recognizes electrology as providing permanent hair removal, The FDA identification in Title 21, CFR, Sec 878.5350 for needle-type epilators is: "a device intended to remove the hair by destroying the dermal papilla of a hair" As no other device for hair removal has the unique identification of "destroying the dermal papilla of a hair" only electrologists are allowed to claim permanent hair removal in their advertising

11
u/5jane
Sun Apr 11 06:58:01 2021 UTC
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(2 children)

Done incorrectly, thermolysis can also cause bad scarring if too much is done on high density areas or power levels are set too high.

Yeah, no kidding. This is very important. Patience is the name of the game. You, or your electrologist, may feel like you just can't wait to zap those hairs, particularly if you've been at it for a while and progress is frustratingly slow. This mentality leads to overtreating, which leads to scarring.

What seems to be particularly bad is trying to clear a sensitive area - such as the upper lip - of all hairs, 100%, in a single sitting. Density of hair on the upper lip is high and if you treat them all (with thermolysis), that is a lot of heat applied per square milimeter of skin, over and over and over again.

The skin does not like that at all and you can develop scarring, "pitted" skin, which is going to look weird even with makeup on, because the makeup goes into the the little pits which creates a fairly weird effect.

Make sure to choose a good, patient electrologist. There are some out there who may have good technique, but are a bit reckless, and will overtreat you in order to get a result. The skin has an amazing capacity to heal, but if you've been overtreated too many times...there is only so much healing that the skin is capable of.

3
Sun Apr 11 07:42:30 2021 UTC
(1 child)

I've seen enough work from purported "experts" on Hairtell to come to the conclusion that everyone there is in denial. Hairtell electrologists are quick to tell you that electrolysis scarring is so rare as to not be a concern. I see scars here among Los Angeles girls all the time.

Whenever a client brings up Hairtell with me, I tell them straight up: Andrea James has never zapped a single hair!

3
u/5jane
Sun Apr 11 08:27:37 2021 UTC
(0 children)

I guess you may be right, and thanks for raising that. I have edited my comment.

10
u/[deleted]
Sun Apr 11 14:31:38 2021 UTC
(10 children)

I guess I have an incredibly high pain tolerance because I’ve fallen asleep on the electrolysis table.

10
OP
Sun Apr 11 15:26:39 2021 UTC
(7 children)

It could be your tolerance but it could also just be your electrologist turning down the power or using more galvanic. If it's the case they're using low power thermolysis, it could mean you have to do more hours than necessary because they're not frying it enough. Or your hair could just be fine enough for low power to work ok.

6
Sun Apr 11 19:40:14 2021 UTC
(6 children)

I do a lot of single-needle galvanic work. Many of my clients zonk out unless I'm on a particularly sensitive part like the upper lip. Similarly, I've slept through plenty of galvanic, although I'm really only able to do it if I got just a few hours of sleep the night before. I've last seen a galvanic tech (Electrolysis by Christy in Hayward, I don't get anything for plugging her) about a month ago to get about 10 stragglers off of my neck, and at 0.5 mA, it really felt like nothing.

The only thermolysis I've experienced is practicing on my leg for school, and I wouldn't last with that on my face.

2
Sat Jul 31 03:18:20 2021 UTC
(1 child)

I have been to Christy then I go to the Burrito Shop.

1
Sun Feb 4 22:09:24 2024 UTC
(0 children)

Do you remember what her rates were?

2
Sun Apr 11 21:50:51 2021 UTC
(0 children)

I've fallen asleep with thermolysis on my upper lip ¯_(ツ)_/¯

1
Fri Sep 24 13:53:55 2021 UTC
(2 children)

Do you think galvanic is the most effective, but no one uses it anymore because it takes too long? I had 20hrs, but it all grew back....I think blend or thermolysis, but it seemed more like they were plucking. I stopped going for now.

1
Fri Sep 24 17:58:44 2021 UTC
(1 child)

No one uses it because

  1. Treating a thick hair takes about 15 seconds, roughly, so the time to an initial clearance is longer (even though the regrowth rate for galvanic is lower)

  2. Galvanic technology is old and inexpensive to make, and there isn't much room for an epilator company to distinguish itself with technological innovations. You can clear someone with a 9V battery or a power supply, if you feel up to it. Contrast this with thermolysis, where you can vary the frequency or have it come out in bursts or something, file a patent, and charge $10K for your machine. A lot of schools are paired up with epilator manufacturers, so thermolysis is primarily what they learn.

1
Fri Sep 24 18:23:09 2021 UTC
(0 children)

I see.... thank you💖

2
Sun Apr 11 15:09:22 2021 UTC
(0 children)

That's like...CIPA-level. How the hell...?

1
Fri Jun 14 20:12:18 2024 UTC
(0 children)

Same. As long as we're not working on the lip, or on the soft parts of the neck under the jawline, I'm out like a light. Tbf, I've done about 90 hours at this point, so I'm just kinda over it.

u/[deleted]
Sun Apr 11 05:37:18 2021 UTC
(2 children)

[deleted]

3
Sun Apr 11 07:51:27 2021 UTC
(0 children)

Same. I went through it for months and I have all of one cycle of hair that's white. The rest are still dark brown. And being on progesterone makes it unbelievably painful.

2
Sun Apr 11 11:28:31 2021 UTC
(0 children)

I had this experience with blend also, with 2 different operators. I am now having treatments with galvanic and I'm so far much more satisfied with the results.

6
u/mszoeyrose
Tue Apr 13 01:26:13 2021 UTC
(4 children)

While someone said thermolysis can scar, I had so much pitting from going through multi-needle galvanic. My skin would be raw for two weeks and I couldn't shave for just as long.

Yet thermolysis has been the lifesaver for me. I just wish my insurance would cover it for face clearing and not just as GCS prep. Hell, they cover everything but hair removal, so I'm going to start fighting them after healing from surgery

4
OP
Tue Apr 13 01:35:16 2021 UTC
(1 child)

I definitely have some scarring on my chin. A friend of mine got 3rd degree burns during large volume genital thermolysis. My electrologist even commented once about how she notices lots of women with electrolysis scars.

1
Tue Oct 31 23:09:34 2023 UTC
(0 children)

That's Electrologists using too high settings. They don't know their machines or didn't get adequate training....not watching for skin reactions.

There's absolutely no excuse for any kind of burn, using Electrolysis. I hope that person reported the Electrologist.

2
Tue Oct 31 23:13:23 2023 UTC
(0 children)

There's absolutely no excuse for your Electrologist scarring you - their settings were way to high and they weren't watching for skin reactions.

1
Fri Sep 24 17:51:46 2021 UTC
(0 children)

Yeah, but you-know-who is running absurdly high with her galvanic setup. It's criminal that she's considered an expert at MNG.

3
u/No-Moose470
Sun Apr 11 13:22:39 2021 UTC
(2 children)

What are methods for numbing the face or genitals?

2
Sun Apr 11 14:47:11 2021 UTC
(0 children)

Prilocaine/lidocaine ointment. I have a prescription strength one from my Dr.

1
u/KasseanaTheGreat
Sun Apr 11 14:35:35 2021 UTC
(0 children)

What would you recommend for numbing the face for an electrolysis session?